Luis Seabra is a revolutionary "rock star" winemaker based in the Douro Valley in Portugal.

The Ilimitado Branco - a field blend of local varieties Rabigato, Codega, Gouveiu and Viosinho - shows a little more flesh and ripe stonefruit than the two higher-level Seabra whites, however the seaspray/saline notes and the savoury kick that runs through the whole range shows here too in spades.

It's a wonderful thing to drink. Full of texture and energy and an exotic mix of flavours that sucks you back to the glass again and again. Stunning.